Although Vientiane has existed along the Mekong River for centuries, this December marks its 50th anniversary as the center of the Lao People’s Democratic Republic. It is the world’s youngest communist capital. The others are Beijing, Havana, Hanoi and Pyongyang
(CNN) Aditta Kittikhoun has learned to anticipate the question. No, not Thailand, but it’s near Thailand. No, not China, but it’s near China. No, not Vietnam, but it’s near Vietnam.
Kittikhoun, who is a Lao citizen but grew up mostly in the United States, is used to people not knowing where he is from.
His father worked at the Lao diplomatic mission to the United Nations in New York City. As a result, he speaks fluent English, which was an advantage for him when he returned to his homeland.
Now, Kittikhoun runs a creative media and marketing company in Vientiane, a city of about 850,000 people.
“I would say it’s extremely comfortable, it’s pleasant, people are generally nice to each other,” says Kittikhoun, who is raising his three children in Vientiane.
“I like the atmosphere of this place. I want to continue living here for a long time,” he adds.
Although Vientiane has existed along the Mekong River for centuries, this December marks its 50th anniversary as the center of the Lao People’s Democratic Republic. It is the world’s youngest communist capital. The others are Beijing, Havana, Hanoi and Pyongyang.
This is no Bangkok on the Mekong. Landlocked Laos has far fewer tourists than its beach-lined neighbors. There are no skyscrapers. Public transportation is minimal. Vientiane’s tiny airport has just six gates, operating only short-haul flights from across the region.
Global brands are few and far between. Most chains are Thai or Chinese, although a handful of Starbucks have opened in recent years – Starbucks cups with the Vientiane logo have become unexpected collectors’ items online. A DoubleTree by Hilton opened in the city in 2024, one of the first Western hotel brands to make inroads here.
As for sightseeing, the most popular attractions are the Patuxai Victory Monument, dedicated to the Lao people who fought for independence from the French, and Wat Si Saket, a temple known for its thousands of Buddha sculptures and drawings.
The first thing most people notice about Vientiane is the heat. Like other Southeast Asian capitals, it is a hot and humid place with a long summer and a rainy season.
Here in Vien, as the locals call their city, motorbikes speed past Buddhist temples and Brutalist-style government buildings. In parks and public squares, friends gather to eat grilled meats alongside the ubiquitous bottles of Beerlao. Laotian flags, red and dark blue with a bright white circle in the middle, hang from trees or are attached to the sides of food carts.
Vientiane and beyond
Laos’ economy has grown over the past decade, but the World Bank notes that “high inflation, the depreciation of the local currency, and falling real wages are pushing workers into self-employment.” The country was hit hard by the pandemic, and its fragile tourism sector suffered further damage last year after six tourists died from contaminated alcohol at a hostel in Vang Vieng, the country’s top holiday destination.
Many young Laotians have left to seek work in Thailand, where the economy is stronger, especially in the hospitality sector. Most Lao speakers can understand and speak Thai, as the two languages are similar, and many local television channels show Thai films and TV shows.
“There’s a huge chunk of manual labor that’s going overseas,” Kittikhoun says. “The really educated class is still here and it’s in huge demand,” he adds.
Laos’ economy is expected to grow by about 3.5% this year, according to the World Bank. Wages have risen slightly, but inflationary pressures, including rising property prices, keep home ownership out of reach for many.
However, Kiye Simon Luang, a Laotian filmmaker who spent years in France before returning, says some Laotians of his generation who thought they would have to live abroad to pursue their careers in creative fields are returning home.
Luang, who enjoys exploring the city’s vibrant independent music scene in his free time, says he is energized by the young people in Laos who are pushing the culture forward and changing the idea of what it means to be successful.
And he believes that a rising tide lifts all ships.
“It’s normal for a country to develop,” he says. “The population is growing. I can see that the standard of living has increased, that the level of health has also increased, as well as hygiene. Development has priority,” adds Luang.
While tourism is a growing sector in the Laos economy, most tourists visit it as part of a larger trip through Southeast Asia.
And when travelers come to Laos, it’s not Vientiane that most visit.
Luang Prabang, the UNESCO-listed former royal capital in northern Laos, has long been the country’s highlight thanks to its beautiful and well-preserved buildings from the French colonial era.
These days, the largest and fastest-growing market for tourists is Laos’ neighbor to the north – China.
A Chinese-backed high-speed rail project linking Luang Prabang with Vang Vieng and Vientiane has been a success. Now, tourists can travel between Vientiane and Luang Prabang in two hours – a journey that could easily take all day by car on local roads.
The train departs from China’s Yunnan province. Although Chinese people need a visa to travel to Laos, this requirement is waived if they book a package tour with a Lao tour company. As a result, Mandarin-language travel guides are popping up in border areas to lure Chinese tourists south.
Putting Laos in context
Luang Prabang may be the most famous place in Laos.
But, as expat Sophie Steller points out, the historic city is small and doesn’t have as much year-round population as Vientiane.
Many foreigners come to the Lao capital to work for NGOs, to teach English or French (the latter is still officially used in the government).
Steller, originally from Sydney, first came to Laos to work for UNICEF in 1999 and has lived in Vientiane ever since. She quickly fell in love with her new city, but wished she had a good, reliable place to have cocktails, that was open on Sundays and had English-speaking staff.
To fill the gap, she and two friends opened a cafe called “Sticky Fingers” in downtown Vientiane 10 years ago. Steller later bought it to become the sole owner and has remained in the country on a business owner visa.
Steller likes to spend her free days cycling or boating through Vientiane’s green spaces. But when out-of-town friends come to visit, she says she always recommends they visit COPE, an organization that supports landmine victims.
“It’s a real revelation for some people,” she says. “It’s a bit of history about the Vietnam War and how badly this place was bombed.”
Between 1964 and 1973, the United States dropped about two million bombs on Laos in what was called the “secret war.”
The attacks were intended to disrupt supply lines for the Viet Cong during the Vietnam War, giving Laos the dubious honor of being the most bombed country per capita in history. Today, there are an estimated 80 million unexploded bombs scattered across the country, which nonprofit organizations are helping to find and safely dispose of.
About three million tourists visited the country in 2025, compared to 32 million in Thailand. Laos has announced a target of five million tourists a year.
In a world where overcrowding is a constant concern, locals tell CNN they love Vientiane for its laid-back, manageable lifestyle. And for expats like Steller, it still feels like a well-kept secret.
“I’ve never been bored here,” she says. “Never.”